Folegandros island
Folegandros Island
Kythnos island
Kythnos island
Folegandros island
Folegandros Island
Kythnos island
Kythnos island
By Thomas P.

Waiting until the afternoon so that the winds would die down, we left Kythnos behind and we sailed northern to Livadi of Serifos. Cruising with the wind on our quarter port it didn’t take us long to reach the eastern coast of the island and we covered the distance of the 22 miles that separated us from the island in about an hour.

Rounding the south-eastern cape of the Livadi bay, we were greeted by the almost permanent gales that blow with great intensity in most of the bay. I don't remember a single time that I have entered Livadi and the downwinds were not blowing like hell.
In the past I had experienced very difficult times on the southern shores of Serifos.

In the trap of the dreaded freckles

So one summer, suffering from meltemias, we moored to the south-west end of the island in the hope of being protected from the big waves and sailing along the southern shores to take a few breaths before setting sail for Sifnos which was our final destination. Indeed, the southern coasts protected us from the big pelagic waves, but we fell into the "lens" of the spiliads that descend demonically from the high mountains of Serifos. The sight I beheld was horrifying, and made worse by the howling of the clefts. The gusts of wind were deafening and lifted the sea, creating a misty veil of suspended droplets that reached a height of twenty meters and traveled for hundreds of meters towards the open white sea.

In the past I had experienced very difficult moments on the southern coast of Serifos. One summer, suffering by the winds, we passed by the southwestern side of the island hoping we would be protected from the large waves and cruised along the southern coast trying to take a few breaths before reaching Sifnos which was our final destination. It was true that the southern coasts sheltered us from large sea waves, but we were entrapped in the gusts of winds that come downwards fiercely from the high mountains of Serifos. The sight I found myself in was terrifying and was even worse because of the howling gusts. The gusts of the wind were deafening.
There were times when even the low bow was suddenly swept away by fierce bursts of wind and did not respond to the movements of the wheel. The only way to pass through the raging winds unhurt was to sail near the coast cliffs and travel following closely the coastline of the southern bays. In this way we avoided the high waves, which were over one meter near the coast, while at the same time we were protected against the terrible gusts of winds.
Traveling in a really "snowy" landscape, we arrived at the port where we managed to tie up with great difficulty. We were trapped in Livadi for three whole days, while the wind-gauges of the sailing boats reached their limit, showing 45 to 50 knots of wind speed.

In the port of Livadi

Fighting against the wind gusts once again, with the rev counter reaching a top limit, we entered the deep bay of Livadi, which extends for almost 1.5 nautical miles.
Chora from above, built at the foot of the hill seems to follow our entry and welcome us, offering us a spectacular sight.

The mouth of the bay is occupied by the sandy beach of Avlomonas, which reaches a length of about one kilometer, making it the longest beach of the island. With the tamarind trees extending over most of it, it gathers a lot of people but without overcrowding.
Around the port is spread the beautiful settlement of Livadi, which is the core of Serifos. Shops, cafes, taverns and night bars are located along the beach road, showing that this is where all the life of the island is. With many rental rooms and hotels, as well as all the island's services located here, it has the ability to serve many visitors.
Of course, there wasn't even room for a sample and we ended up next to the boat of Odysseus, who every day goes out fishing and feeds the ouzo of his "Kali" with fresh fish. After ordering him to prepare for the evening some small fish that he caught in the morning, we took a taxi to Chora.

In the mainland

The town of Serifos, a true jewel of the Cyclades, certainly belongs among the five most beautiful countries of the entire Aegean. Apart from everything else, there are two of her "good things", which magnetize unimaginably and make her stand out. Its amazing small square and the magnificent view from the chapel of Agios Konstantinos. I can only compare it in beauty with the Land of Patmos, with which it has many similarities.

There are some parts in the Aegean Sea that no matter how many times you visit them you still do not get enough of their charm.
The taxi left us 10 minutes later in the square of Milloi, which is perched on the cliff, only five kilometers off the port. This is where the old stone path starts leading to Livadi, the course of which is often interrupted by the asphalted road. On the left there are the mills in a row, only two of which are renovated, and this makes it one of the most beautiful sights of Chora.
On the right side of the square of Milo Chora actually starts. Its whitewashed houses perched on the ridge of the rough rock reach the top, where the church of Ag. Constantinos rises.

So we once again took the central cobbled street that starts in front of the traditional coffee shop "Mills", now the only hangout for the elderly in Chora. Proceeding to the eastern side of the rock, between the adjoining cuboid houses, at some point we turn right into the very narrow alley that crosses the ridge vertically and climbing several steps we come out to the small square. "Piazza", the locals call it and when you see it, especially when you visit it for the first time, only exclamations of admiration spontaneously come out.
Like a theatrical scene where each of us wishes to feel that he has even a small role in it. A small neighborhood, standing untouched without having changed anything for hundreds of years now. Just a place in some corner of it, in this extremely real environment, is an unrepeatable experience. An experience that never fades and invites you to relive it again and again...
Nothing can be simpler and yet nothing can be so grand.
The church of Agios Athanasios with its blue dome and the neoclassical building of the Town Hall, which is the only one in the whole country, dominate one side of the square. The traditional tavern "Zorbas" and the cafe of Stratos fill the cobbled street from end to end with their tables and give life to this magical neighborhood. Among them are some old low houses with their characteristic marble lintels. Now they may be abandoned and empty, but in the past they were the shopping center as well as meeting points and entertainment core for the locals.

Every moment and every hour of the day here is magical. If our strength allowed us, we could have stayed and roamed the entire day in the few square meters of this neighborhood. In the morning, at noon and of course at dusk when the square prepares to welcome its night visitors, where everything changes and becomes even more magical. The morning coffee, the lunch ouzo and the evening drink in Piazza acquire a different dimension.
From Piazza begins the narrow alley, which runs through the western side of the Town and through an amazing route leads us to its top. The images are constantly alternating, as if vying for beauty with each other, and forcing us to stop frequently in order to imprint in our memory as many as we can. The entire route is full of colorful flowers that decorate the small courtyards. Winding down the steep rock, we admire the white houses that literally hang in the air.

Sometimes the alley passes through arcades, under the two-story houses, to continue again in the clearing on the side of unique aesthetic corners.

At the end of the alley, the steep small steps begin that finally take us to the highest point of the rock and Chora. Here is the small church of Agios Konstantinos, whose small precinct is one of the most enchanting balconies of the Cyclades.

The agnadi from here has no end. The view is breathtaking, as we have the feeling that we are floating in space. Beneath our feet stretches the plain of Livadi which ends at the port, while wherever we turn our gaze the neighboring Cyclades islands can be clearly seen. In the south, Kimolos, Milos and very close Sifnos, further east Antiparos and Paros and above Syros.

Enchanted, without taking a mile, we sat on the terrace and enjoyed the absolute peace and the wonderful view until the sun tilted towards its west. The night found us in the Piazza, in the company of our refreshing drinks, trying to decipher the magic we were receiving.
The Cyclades, in their own way, "teach" and transmit to the whole world the magic of simplicity that surpasses in charm everything modern and imposing.
Only the combination of white and blue, in very simple constructions. Colors, of course, which are not just by chance. Just as the building rules determined by the morphology of the steep rocks and by the need for protection both from the strong sun and the almost permanent summer melts, as well as from the intentions of pirates and any would-be conqueror, are not random. "Tight" Countries, perched on steep cliffs far from the sea, impregnable veritable fortresses. Without any exaggeration, they are monuments of world cultural heritage. And as such we must treat them, respect them and protect them as the apple of our eye. Because this inheritance that has bequeathed to us is not exchanged for all the gold in the world.

The agnadi from here has no end. The view is breathtaking, as we have the feeling that we are floating in space. Beneath our feet stretches the plain of Livadi which ends at the port, while wherever we turn our gaze the neighboring Cyclades islands can be clearly seen. In the south, Kimolos, Milos and very close Sifnos, further east Antiparos and Paros and above Syros.

Wandering inland

The next day we rented a jeep from Livadi, in order to wander around the inland villages of the island. Built in positions that ensure an unlimited view of the sea, without any tourist infrastructure and with obvious signs of abandonment, they constitute the unseen and unexplored side of Serifos. With very few residents left, most of whom are elderly, they are slowly being driven into desolation. Our visit to these villages helps us to get to know the real life of the island, before it is even changed by the tourist development.
Heading east, we passed the dam and the large artificial lake and in a short time we reached the village of Kallitsos. Anagramming of Kallistos, which the locals tend to do. Amphitheatrically built on the steep slope, with a wonderful view towards the Kentarchos bay and Serifopoula.

The path starts from the village, which through the large ravine that is drowned in greenery, leads to the pebbly beach of Kentarchos.
After a short distance, the asphalt road turns to the northern side of the island and soon we come across the historical monastery of Taxiarches Michael and Gabriel, who are also the patrons of the island. A real fortress that once housed a lot of people. In the whitewashed wall whose height varies from five to ten meters and surrounds the church of the same name, we can see the very small windows that were used as battlements during the difficult years of pirate raids. The monastery is now maintained by a monk for many years, and if we are lucky and meet him there, he will show us inside, where we will admire the marble-paved courtyard and its beautiful decoration.
After the Monastery the road continues following the relief of the hills, giving us a wonderful view towards the sea and Kythnos. Throughout the route, scattered on the slopes, sometimes isolated and sometimes concentrated in small residential groups, are low stone and one-room houses in which the locals lived for as long as their agricultural occupations lasted.
Galani, Pyrgos and Panagia are the next villages we meet, which are very close one after the other.

Panagia is the largest with about 50 families, and here the biggest festival of the island takes place on the fifteenth of August. The church of the same name, which dates back to the 11th century, is one of the most important "monuments" of the island.
We sat on the pavement of the small square, under the shade of the old olive tree, next to the 87-year-old lady Chrysoula.
"We used to sit here for hours in the summer. Now, you rarely meet a person", he tells us, recalling the past years.
We wandered for some time in the alleys of the village, noticing many deserted houses with their old and neglected vines whose trunks looked like whole trees. We sat in one of the two cafes in the village, the wine cafe and grocery store "Panagia". A now "museum" space, which you rarely see today, transported us to the time of our grandparents. Home, cafe, ouzo and grocery store together, just as the sign above its door suggests.

In a very small and narrow space, which looked more like a storeroom, there were all the necessities and more. Milk, canned goods, spaghetti, oils, detergents and anything you can think of. All in limited quantities, crammed to fit on the shelves bent by the weight, but sufficient to meet the daily needs of the few inhabitants.
So we made ourselves comfortable in the small courtyard of the wine-café-grocery store, where two tables hardly fit together, and we spent truly unforgettable and very authentic moments. The hospitable hostess, after first bringing our coffees, urged us to try the amazing local tsipouro accompanied by the equally amazing sheep's cheese, which we still remember with longing.

Around the island

The intense fragmentation of the coast of Serifos is responsible for the formation of many coves, in which are some of the most beautiful beaches of the Cyclades. So one morning, we started from Livadi heading west, with the aim of exploring all the coasts of the island.
We are still in the Livadi bay, and just outside the port we come across two of the best sandy beaches of the island. First of all, the large and well-shaped Livadakia bay opens in front of us.

With green waters, golden sand and clinging big tamarinds occupying its entire length, it is natural that it gathers the most people since it is located just below the newly developing settlement of the same name and only ten minutes from the port. On the northern side of the coast there are tavernas and cafes on the sand, while in the middle of it, behind the old harbors, there is also the island's only campsite, literally drowned in greenery. Early in the morning, before every corner of this wonderful beach was occupied, we enjoyed our swim and walked on the golden sand under the dense shade of the tamarisk trees. Immediately after Livadakia is the small bay of Karavi, whose name is due to an old shipwreck that has been found at its bottom, and piles of amphorae dating back to the 6th BC. century. At its mouth is a very beautiful and limited length sandy beach with wonderfully transparent waters.
After Cape Spathi, two very large bays open up that occupy almost the entire southern side of the island. First we come across the bay of Kalos Ambelios, on the eastern side of which is the homonymous beach. Very beautiful small sandy beach with crystal clear waters, which is ideal for moments of rest and relaxation, since it is more isolated since the only access is the long path that starts from Alonaki. The western end of the small beach closes with beautiful formations of smooth rocks between which unique natural pools are formed.

In Koutalas

Immediately after, between Cape Halara and Aspro Kavos, the deep bay of Koutalas begins.
Three of the most famous beaches of Serifos are located here. On the west side are Vagia and Ganema and at the mouth of the bay is the homonymous beach of Koutalas. In Vagia we will find a wide sandy beach with green waters, with the best spot being the southern end next to the rocks. Unfortunately, the scattered buildings on the coast, the construction of which has not been completed, spoil the image of the beach too much. Immediately after Vagia begins the wide Ganema beach, paved with sand and pebbles, being a popular destination for many, since there is a lot of space and rich shade under the tamarisk trees, as well as a small taverna at the end of it for food and rest.

Then we come across the beach of Koutalas, right in front of the holiday settlement of the same name. With sand and pebbles, and a very nice little tavern in the middle of it, it immediately caught our attention. We slowly got out and caught a glimpse of the old rusted anchor half sunk in the sand. An ouzo was necessary to continue our wanderings.
Koutalas experienced great prosperity during the mining era. On the western side of the bay, attractions now, are the low stone houses of the miners and the iron ladder for loading the ships.
Leaving the bay of Koutalas, always heading west, we come across the smaller bay of Maliadikos. Here there are two interesting pebbly beaches, one in the middle with reeds and tamarisks and one on the west side with a tall palm tree dominating the middle of it.
Immediately afterwards is the Vreloudi cove, which hosts a small pebbly shore with a beautiful islet of tamarind trees at one end. On the beaches of Maliadikos and Vreloudi, which are usually deserted, we can enjoy a few hours of solitude and isolation that we sometimes absolutely need.

In the Great Meadow

Climbing Akrotiri, or Kyklop's Cave as the southwestern end of Serifou is called, we started to climb the western side of the island. In less than a mile and a half, lies the mouth of Great Meadow Cove. We entered the deep bay, which offers absolute protection from the meltemias, and tied up at the small jetty on its western side. A few meters further on, dominates the impressive neoclassical building, which, surrounded by palm trees, reflects its recent history. Deserted now, with many walls and part of its roof having collapsed, it was for many years the headquarters of the mining company that was based here.
Megalo Livadi experienced great development during the iron ore mining period, when it was the center of Serifos. The whole place was alive with life, since the workers in the mines reached 4000 people.
Everything was here. Public services, school, police station, hospital, restaurants and many shops.

Now, only the remains of the rusted wagons and their rails, the huge loading ladder and the dilapidated buildings that used to be the miners' quarters
they remain there to remind us of the great economic development of the place and the very harsh past that was hidden behind it.

Directly in front of the old command post is the monument to the bloody revolt of the workers, who demanded the implementation of the eight-hour day and the improvement of working conditions.
At one point I went up the concrete road that is on the east side of the cove. From there we can have a more complete picture of how the ores are transported to the ships. We will see the rails and piles from the wagons that carried the iron ore to the huge iron loading ladder, as well as its massive stone support pillars.
Today, Megalo Livadi is a small coastal settlement with little tourist infrastructure. There are only a few rooms for rent and a couple of small taverns that fill most of the coast with their tables. Without having a remarkable beach, it is certainly an attractive place that gathers a lot of people, both for the old buildings and the mining facilities and for the beautiful scenery set up by the small tavernas with their tables under the large piers, next to the sea .
Sailing very close to the north-western coasts, we stopped for a while at the bays of Kountouros, Abessalos, Notinos and Karavas. Everywhere there are pebble or sand beaches and shade provided by tamarisk trees. Passing slowly to the northern side of the island, we entered the large bay of Sykamia. At the mouth of the bay there is a wide beach with sand and pebbles, while behind the tamarisk trees, hidden in the greenery is the "Akrogiali" tavern.
Essentially the port of the villages of Galani and Panagia, it is a very small settlement with a few houses on the western side of the coast. Without even a small harbor to protect from the north winds, the locals pull their boats to the beach under the big tamarisk trees. On the eastern side of the gulf of Sykamia, there is the cove of Skala, which gives a very good anchorage to the northerners. At the other end of the northern side of the island, is Platys Gialos bay, port of the Monastery of Taxiarches. Inside the bay there are three separate beaches, with the best one on the western side, laid out with very good sand and plenty of tamarind trees. There is also a small pier, where we can moor and spend the night since the place is surrounded by meltemias, while a few meters above, on the hillside, the picturesque tavern of Nikoulia in an idyllic setting with a beautiful view of our bay promises dreamy moments.

In Psili Ammos and Agios Sostis

Going down the eastern shores of Serifos, we come across the cove of Kentarchos. At its mouth is a beautiful coast with pebbles, tamarisks and clear waters, harbor of the village of Kallitsos. Further down is the beach of Ai Giannis. Paved with sand and pebbles, with wonderful waters and shade provided by tamarisk trees, it takes its name from the homonymous church located on the coast. Immediately to the south are the sandy beaches of Psili Ammos and Agios Sostis, which from the very first glance make us forget what we have seen so far.

They are two enchanting beaches, which without any doubt are among the most beautiful of the Cyclades. Beaches, which in no way should be missed. Psili Ammos, which is also the largest, was declared the best beach in Europe for the year 2003. A golden sandy beach, with amazing shallow and green waters, that magnetize you and "force" you to drop anchor. The enchanting setting is completed with the two tavernas on the coast, which, hidden among the tamarisk trees and under the shade of the reeds, ensure us unique moments of coolness and rest.
Such a beautiful beach, it is bound to gather a lot of people, since it is at the top of the preference of every visitor of the island.
Immediately after, there is the smaller beach of Agios Sostis, just as amazing as that of Psili Ammos. But it fits more with the philosophy if you will, of the boat holiday way. It is located in a narrow bay, formed by a small islet connected to the mainland by a wide strip of sand. On the islet there is the homonymous church of Agios Sostis and a few meters further a small dock, where we can spend a dreamy night. At the mouth of the bay, a golden sandy beach of limited length is formed, with crystal clear and enchanting blue-green waters, and with several tamarind trees occupying one end of it.

Both Psili Ammos and Agios Sostis are beaches that you can hardly leave. So we unanimously decided to spend our entire next day on their golden sands to enjoy them as much as we could. So the morning of the next day found us anchored on the southern side of Psili Ammos, where the sharp ledges of the rocks create beautiful formations, between which are enclosed small enchanting pools with surprisingly green waters. All day long we would dive into the water and then swim out and dry off on the hot golden sand. In the afternoon, we flew to Agios Sostis and tied up in the small dock. Until dusk we swam and enjoyed the wonderful waters, greedily absorbing the beauty of this place. In the evening, we set up the small table and chairs in the small dock, and next to our favorite inflatable, we drank our last ouzos in Surfiotiko soil.

We use the following

For navigators

- With 33 nm of indented coastline and many beautiful beaches, Serifos is a magnificent destination. However, two things make it special. The amazing Chora which makes us feel that no matter how many times we visit it, they are not enough and the exotic beaches of Psili Ammos and Agios Sostis that will steal our heart.
- All the bays of the south side are suitable to spend the night, but our stay at the small pier of Plati Gialos or at the dock of Agios Sostis, the narrow bay where the sea is like a lake even when the winds rage, is certainly a very nice experience.
When meltemi is over 6 Beaufort, the gusts of winds on the southern shores of Serifos can reach up to 50 knots. So, if we go down to Serifos with a rough sea, let's not fool ourselves and try vainly to be sheltered on the southern coasts
-There is a new trial awaiting us there: tremendous gusts of wind have incredible force and the waves they raise are over one meter in a very short distance from the rocky coast.

Particularly dangerous points are:
- The reefs that are on the eastern headland of the bay Sykamia, Β37ο12.14΄ Α24ο28. 22΄
- The reef in the western of Plati Gialos Β37ο12.42΄ Α24ο31.02΄
- The reef in front of the bay Karavi Β37ο07.87΄ Α24ο31.06΄

...keep Ribbing!             

Serifos Island
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